It’s doubtful any lacrosse stick manufacturer takes into account how well their head will dye, as evidenced by the vast majority of manufacturers who void their stick’s warranty if you dye it. But for those of us who dabble in the colorful arts, this kind of thing is important to us.
Below is a list of all the heads I’ve ever dyed, and where they fall in my pantheon of dye-ability.
Some heads take vinyl like a dream and absorb LaxDip like cactii. Others are covered in texture and resist the dye like a duck feather.
these heads are the best of the best, and I’d dye these all day long if I could.
- Stringking Mark 1 ($50 for a head that takes vinyl and dye like a champ AND has a ton of sidewall holes? for new players…this is a no brainer)
- Stringking Mark 2A/2V/2D (by far my favorite line of heads of all time, for dyeing and stringing – note the 2F will NOT take dye, see below)
- Stringking Legend & Legend W
- Laxroom Unbranded (a 2-pack costs $32 today, with no texture and no plastic designs – takes dye and vinyl great and is a perfect head to try new techniques on)
- Natureboy Kraken Mini Sticks (another fan favorite, these are inexpensive and amazing to dye)
Next Best Thing
not bad, but not in the hall of fame, these heads will take dye just fine as long as you know their limitations
- Warrior Regulator (has some scoop designs that might get in the way of vinyl, but dye is vibrant)
- Warrior Burn FO (as with most FO heads, the dye isn’t super vibrant, but there’s no texture and minimal designs in the plastic)
- STX Eclipse II (some texture here and there, but the shiny parts come out amazing)
- Warrior Nemesis III (great head to dye, but some raised lettering and scoop texture is something you’ll have to work around)
- Maverik Havok (some tricky scoop plastic designs and slight scoop texture, but can look neat with the right dye job – big american flag on back of scoop takes up some prime real estate – thin sidewalls means hard to fit lettering)
- Nike CEO (tons of shiny plastic, a little texture near the topstring holes, but overall a great head to dye)
- STX Surgeon 700 (some more funky scoop designs from STX, but shiny plastic everywhere means easy vinyl application and bright colors)
Good, Not Great
these heads are serviceable, but for one reason or another can be challenging to dye.
- Powell Pioneer (lots of texture made it hard to adhere the vinyl, leading to slight bleeding)
- STX Stallion (scoop is this textured plastic stuff that makes it hard not to bleed under the vinyl, but dye looks great on this head)
- Brine King (I’ve done some cool designs on Kings, but there is a ton of plastic etching and texture that limits what we can do with it)
- ECD Rebel O & Rebel D (these would be all stars if not for a strange plastic abnormality that impacts more than half the Rebels I’ve dyed, where the middle of the scoop just won’t take the dye and can really screw up a design)
- Warrior Evo 5 (another head we’ve done a handful of, and we’d have had more options if there wasn’t so much etching on the plastic)
- ECD Mirage (considering they have the word ‘dye’ in their company name, the Mirage also struggled with a plastic abnormality on the scoop)
- Maverik Tactik (textured scoops are the worst)
- Alpha Ascension (took vinyl and dye fine, but then had a plastic abnormality at the bottom of the scoop)
you can ask if we’ll dye these heads, but after trying once, we might say no
- ECD Weapon X (this one is notorious for being difficult to dye – we can do it, but understand it’ll be very muted and not vibrant at all)
- Stringking Mark 2F (nope – won’t make this mistake again – 4 hours in a boiling pot of laxdip orange and my head was peach – lesson learned)